I have such a hard time picking favorites. I really do. At least once per season I can be heard exclaiming “THIS is my favorite time of year!”
In truth, I really just think that I love transition, the newness of the seasons and the sense of potential and promise that come from a fresh start. My favorite season is the first two weeks of every season.
But, if it really came down to it, my truly favorite season is autumn. Specifically early autumn. The bounty of summer harvest is still in full swing, the trees begin dropping leaves in a kaleidoscope of flaming hues, the oppressive heat of summer softens comfortably with the occasional brisk breeze, and it doesn’t hurt that it’s also my birthday season!
The pace of life begins to slow, and in contrast to the don’t-miss-a-thing, fever-pitch of summer, I begin finding moments to sip slowly on my morning coffee. I find myself lazily daydreaming as I watch the fog rolling in off the bay and find comfort in a familiar wool sweater, pulled once again from it’s cedar-lined summer home.
Best yet, it’s finally cool enough to consider turning on my home oven, and the warming-spices of winter are back in my baking arsenal.
So, when I decided to include a quarterly post highlighting my favorite seasonal recipes, autumn seemed like the only place to start.
Since childhood, fall has always meant wandering through u-pick apple orchards and sipping on fresh pressed apple cider. I know that autumn means pumpkin spice to many, but for me it’s unequivocally apple cider. This recipe might be all of my most nostalgic flavors all rolled into one: deep, toasty caramel, fresh-pressed apple cider, rich custard with a kiss of green cardamom, all wrapped in a classic buttery vanilla bean tart crust.
I love the 1-2-3 tart dough recipe from Brave Tart and wouldn’t change a thing! It rolls out, patches in a most forgiving way, and is perfect for sweet and tender crusts. Plus, (if you remember from my last post) I love recipes that are built off of classic ratios. I would definitely recommend opting for the addition of fresh vanilla bean, though.
The custard recipe is a very slight adaptation of the baked custard tart from Butter Baking with the small adjustment of adding of 1/2 tsp of cardamom with the cream. I also made the recipe into 10 individual tarts rather than one large one and baked, as directed, until the custard had just the slightest wobble to it.
The real show-stopper here, though, is the apple cider caramel. THIS is what it’s really all about. Smooth and creamy, and with an impressive depth of apple flavor, this caramel is just as good eaten by the spoon as anything else, but I like it best with a creamy custard or ice cream to balance the sweetness.
Tart dough: Follow the directions, adding the optional 1/2 vanilla bean, and baking in 10 mini tart shells. Pre-bake shells with weights (I use dry beans and a cupcake liner) until very lightly golden.
Custard: Follow recipe for custard, adding 1/2 tsp ground green cardamom to the heated cream. Fill the tarts 3/4 with custard, leaving a bit a room for the layer of caramel on top.
Apple cider caramel:
8 oz (1 cup) fresh pressed apple cider
1 oz (2 Tablespoons) heavy cream
6 oz sugar
1-2 oz water, just enough to wet the sugar
2 oz (4 Tablespoons, 1/2 stick) butter
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp vanilla extract
- Reduce apple cider to 3 oz
- Combine cream with hot cider reduction and set aside, but do not allow to cool completely
- Combine sugar and water in a thick-bottom, medium sized pot. The sugar will bubble up a lot when the cream/cider is added, so leave extra room. Stir so that the sugar is completely wet.
- Heat over medium-high, but do not stir at all once heating. If the sugar begins to crystallize on the edges of the pot, gently brush with a wet pastry brush to wash down the crystals.
- Cook until the sugar turns a deep amber brown, occasionally swirling the pot to even out any hot spots.
- Once the sugar has reached desired deep color, remove from heat and gradually add the cream/cider mix, gently stirring with a whisk and allowing the bubbles to subside a bit between additions until all of the liquid is incorporated.
- Add the butter, and whisk until completely melted, then add the vanilla and salt.
- Allow to cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally, before pouring over the custard.
- Chill before serving.
I’ve been stewing on this blog for what feels like ages, condensing my baking interests into tangible categories (they’re all over the place!) and trying to “find my voice.” I’m a baker, and honest-as-honest, communication isn’t my strongest suit.
As a business owner, I’ve been told time and again that I need to have a blog, usually nested in a long stream of must-haves for successful entrepreneurial endeavors. I liked the idea, but felt like I didn’t know where to go with it, so for awhile it just kind of simmered in the back of my mind. I’d revisit the idea on occasion and ambitiously concluded that I wanted to create something that challenged me creatively and held some common thread through each installment. Full disclosure- I’m still not exactly sure what that will be. But I can tell you a little bit about the things that you’re sure to find here, as I’ve drafted probably half a dozen potential posts over the past few months.
Here’s what I know so far: There’s gonna be a good bit of digging into baking science (because I flippin’ love that stuff!). Everything from ingredient substitution to the chemistry of eggs is fair game. If you’re pretty casual about your baking, that might all seem a bit dense. But if I haven’t dissuaded you entirely yet, I'm hoping you'll enjoy following along as I try to dig deeper into what makes desserts work (or fail, as the case may sometimes be.)
I’ll be writing about what I am learning myself, because it’s a never-ending process and I’m constantly evolving and discovering new things. This list feels endless, but certainly encompasses working with/growing edible flowers, specialty-diet baking, seasonal recipes, and natural food dyes. And, of course, cakes. Lots of cakes.
With all this in mind, it was difficult to know where to start. Thank goodness for the occasional edge from a fellow creative type: enter Caylie Mash, photographer extraordinaire. Caylie approached me about doing a personal highlight for HER blog, and after the initial flattery subsided I felt that amazing surge of inspiration that often happens when two creative individuals collaborate. An end-of-summer highlight on my business didn't feel complete without also including a trip out to one of the many farms I love to source from, where the desserts really begin.
The day started with a visit to one of my favorite local flower growers, Nancy Vekved (find her at Sweet Peas & Carrot Cake), where we walked through the gardens as Nancy pointed out her favorite new blooms and answered all of my million questions. I love the wealth of information you can glean from veteran gardeners, and Nancy is always happy to entertain my curiosities- ranging from plant identification, to the best time to harvest herbs for drying, to "hey, do you know what this flower tastes like?-- and can I eat one??"
Nancy has an incredible garden, meandering and wild to the untrained eye, though methodical and organized upon closer inspection. She specializes in unsprayed flowers, though that day I came for the fig tree, ripe and dripping with fruit. We also found a wealth of perfectly ripe thornless blackberries, and with that inspiration, a dessert plan was born.
These late summer treats always beg to become fruit pies and tarts: simple confections made to let the ripened-to-perfection flavors shine through. This time of year, I like to keep a healthy stock of pie dough in the freezer for such occasions.
With the abundance of pie dough recipes in the world, I've never found anything better than the classic 3-2-1 formula.
That's 3 parts flour : 2 parts fat : 1 part water, by weight.
I prefer an all-butter pie dough made with pastured-raised, grass-fed butter and locally milled pastry flour. Some claim it's best to use some (or all) shortening as the fat in pie dough, as it has a higher melting temperature than butter and so is easier to create a flaky crust with. I've always preferred the flavor that butter lends over the workabilty of shortening, though.
If you're using all butter, be sure to work quickly and keep the dough cool. Don't be afraid to pop it back in the cooler for a few minutes, especially in the summer heat. I also love having a marble slab to roll my pie dough on, as it helps keep the dough chilled. On especially hot days, I'll even chill the marble in the refrigerator before starting to roll my pie dough for some extra working time.
Figs and blackberries are a match made in heaven, and only needed a touch of nutty richness to round out the dish: a creamy brown butter filling to nest atop.
Brown butter filling is another thing you're likely to find stashed in my fridge for last minute dessert emergencies. If I'm being completely honest, these days I usually just eyeball the recipe at about equal parts eggs, sugar, and softened (but not melted) browned butter, and about half as much flour. Add a pinch of salt, the beans scraped out of a vanilla pod, beat until fluffy, and you've got one of the most luscious and versatile fillings I've ever met.
I hope you enjoyed this peek into what my sourcing and process looks like. Check back soon for a post on my favorite autumn recipes and don’t forget to sign up for my mailing list so that you never miss a post!
All photos in the post by Caylie Mash Photography, used with permission.